I just heard from others in this newsgroup that my outlets and switches should match the breaker they are on (20 amp breaker, 20 amp rated switches and outlets). I replaced them with 3 pronged outlets, and used the same rating that was on the old 2 prong ones, 15 amp. The house is 40 years old, and when we bought it 2 years ago, they only had the 2 prong outlets. I know the house is wired correctly, 12 gauge on a 20 amp, 14 gauge on a 15 amp. If you stay consistent with your wiring, it'll be easier down the road when you need to change out switches / outlets. You can run 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit - no issues there, but for the ease of wiring it up - it's best to use the outlet matched to the circuit (I found this out the hard way when putting new outlets in a house we just bought - our dining room is on a 20 amp kitchen circuit - was bit of a bitch connecting #12 wire to the screw terminals since I couldn't push them into the holes made for #14 wire). #14 will fit in a 20 amp outlet, but it won' t be a tight connection (if it feels loose or has play in the connection - you're using an outlet rated higher than the circuit). #12 Romex will not fit in a 15 amp outlet. #14 Romex is slightly thinner and somewhat more flexible and easier to work with than #12. #12 Romex = 20 amp circuit = 20 amp circuit breaker = use 20 amp rated outlets/switches #14 Romex = 15 amp circuit = 15 amp circuit breaker = use 15 amp rated outlets/switches My air compressor outlet in the garage, and my air conditioner one in the house. However, I have 2 outlets that I was sure to use a 20A receptacle. Yet, most of us do it, because most of the time the load is spread out over several outlets. I'd be more concerned about using 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit. If, however, you are using a light switch to control a motor or other heavy use item, then you should not use the standard cheapo 15A switches. But in winter I dont tend to spend much time in the garage anyhow. In the winter they are a little slow to get bright though, so I often replace at least one of them with standard bulbs. So, when I have 6 of them in use, i am only consuming 120W total, and have a nice bright garage. I should note, i have all CF (compact florescent) bulbs in my garage, the ones that put out equivalant to 100W but use around 20W. But that's mostly just because I had some #14 romex and wanted to use it up on the lights. Personally, I have 15A breakers on the lighting in my garage and 20A breakers on the outlets. Aġ5A switch could actually handle 14 100W bulbs before it became an issue. It's unlikely any fixture in the house will use that much. That means 6 100W bulbs is drawing 6 amps. you might have 6 lights on a switch in your garage, if it's well lit. Unless you are powering the high powered lighting in a commercial warehouse or arena, there is no problem. 2: A receptacle installed exclusively for the use of aĬord-and-plug-connected arc welder shall be permitted to have anĪmpere rating not less than the minimum branch-circuit conductorĪmpacity determined by 630.11(A) for arc welders.Ĥ38.81(B) Portable Motor of 1⁄3 Horsepower or Less.įor a portable motor rated at 1⁄3 hp or less, the controller shall be permitted to beĪn attachment plug and receptacle or cord connector.You and half the people in the US have this setup. 1: A receptacle installed in accordance with 430.81(B).Įxception No. You will also need to upgrade the outlet if it is the only receptacle on the circuit per 210.21(B)(1), and if the pool motor does not meet the definition of 438.81(B) (quotes are from NEC:2011):Ģ10.21(B)(1) Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit.Ī single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall haveĪn ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit.Įxception No. You may upgrade the breaker to 20 A if the wire is 12 AWG copper, but you may not if the wire is 12 AWG aluminum per Table 310.15(B)(16) (quote is from NEC:2011) - Note, aluminum wiring for 12 AWG is uncommon in homes constructed within the past 30 years:
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